Saturday, October 30, 2010

Three in One: Venice, Florence, and Siena in One Weekend

Where do I even begin?

It's been a day since I got back from probably the best weekend of my life. Venice, Florence, Tavarnelle, and Siena combined made for a weekend full of Italian beauty!

Venice in all it's beauty reminded me of the reality of the dream I'm living (ironic as it might be). To look back when I was a child who dreamed to travel Europe and now looking at myself years later here is something so amazing. I stood on a bridge in Venice overlooking the same canal that impressed my memory as a child. The experience of it all is surreal and at the same time so life-like. What I knew Europe to be in my mind, is coming alive as I'm seeing with my own eyes the places that I dreamed about. In a sense, it is like living a dream. Venice was very dream-like. It was so serene and idealistic. The waterways and canals filled this city on water as do allies and roadways fill others. Walking upon our first bridge after arriving in Venice at 5:30 a.m. and seeing the sun rise was a breath-taking experience. Imagining the lives of the boat men driving under us, I saw the sun slowly creep up over the domes and tall bell towers of this scenic city. I was able to see Venice come alive as the city started to wake. The shops opened. College students such as ourselves began walking to class, as Venice is full of art schools. When we began our journey, we had no real set plans for what we were going to do in Venice. When we arrived, we decided to just walk and explore. The exhilaration of being in city such as this, unknown to us, was something like I had never felt before even in the other cities I had visited prior to this. Maybe it was because I felt Venice held within it a bud to be opened, a mystery to be solved. It had a sort of romantic enticement about it that pulled me in. It was amazing seeing the unknown become known, in a sense as the perception of Venice in my head upon arriving was changed to an encounter with the city's secrets and treasures. It was so full of treasure. Around every corner lay a new road to adventure. Half the time, we didn't know where it led; we didn't know what we were going to find. What was the next corner going to bring?
What amazed met he most was the myriad of bridges that filled the city. There were bridges everywhere. Of course there would be considering this city is literally a city on water. There are no cars, just boats and waterways, and of course gondolas. Speaking of gondolas, our encounter with a specific gondolier, Alejandro, would come to be probably my most memorable experience in all of Venice. We didn't find him, he found us. We happened upon our first gondola of the day early in the morning. We wanted to wait for it to warm up so we stopped, took some pictures and proceeded to walk up the bridge. Yet, Alejandro had other plans. He saw it fit to not let us escape. Not only did he sing and barter with us, he crossed the river under us, walked up the bridge and that is when our hearts were lost to him forever. He made it a point of making a personal connection with us. Maybe it was him looking for business, but his smooth Italian personality won us over. The six girls gave in--but it didn't come without a deal! We got him down to ten euros per person! So cheap. If ever there was the perfect stereo-typical gondolier, it would be Alejandro. He sang, he entertained us, and he even had the hat and the striped sweater! Maggie had the great privilege of wearing it for most of our ride. He heightened our experience, making it the perfect day in Venice.

Florence was our next stop. This city came alive--all of history came alive--when our tour guide, Professor Liz Levs, explained the city in such a way that one couldn't help imagining living in Florence as it became established as one of the most prominent cities in medieval Europe. What impressed me the most was her explanation of "David" by Michelangelo in the Galleria dell'Accademia! She must have spent thirty minutes or more explaining in detail this magnificent sculpture of Michelangelo, completed in 1504, taking three years to finish. Michelangelo's career really began with the Pieta, found in St. Peter's Basilica, which he completed at the young age of 24.
Not only did we visit the Duomo, Santa Maria del Fiore, and the Baptistery, we visited what might, by far, be my most favorite place in all of Northern Italy, the Uffizi Gallery! Housed here are such great works from Rafael, Michelangelo, Rembrandt, and Gabinetto! There was even a Caravaggio exhibit going on while we were there. It was magnificent.

Next stop, Siena, but not without an adventure along the way!

Deep in the heart of the Tuscan region lies Tavarnelle. On a map of Italy, it's too small to be seen. One has to look at a Tuscany map where it can be seen at the center of Tuscany in between Florence and Siena. This town was a surprise to us all. I had booked reservations at a hostel not knowing where it was in location to Florence. It happened to be a 30 minute bus ride from Florence. On the way there I was worried we were going to end up in some ghost town in the middle of nowhere. Although it seemed like that at our bus stop (literally a pole on the side of the street), we walked into town to find it cute and quaint. We were in a little town called Tavarnelle. Our hostel: Ostel del Chianti. The bus stop was literally a pole in the middle of a little town. I was worried. Were we in the middle of nowhere? We arrived at our hostel, a two minute walk from our bus stop. To my surprise, the hostess was so hospitable, which was so refreshing after dealing with rude Italians all day. She was so helpful. We had planned on going back into Florence (where we had come from) to catch our train the next morning because we had already bought our train tickets for it. Not knowing that this town was so far out, I was worried we weren't going to make our train the next morning. Sure enough, because it was a Sunday the next day and buses run less frequently, a bus wasn't leaving until 7:30, the time our train was suppose to leave in Florence. So, I proceeded to inquire about buses going from Tavarnelle to Siena (our next destination). It so happened Tavarnelle was right in between Florence and Siena--it was literally in the heart of Tuscany. So Florence was to the north, Siena to the south. To purchase a bus ticket to Siena from Tavarnelle was practically the same price as taking a bus back to Florence and it left at nine in the morning. I honestly didn't know how much more perfect it could have been! On top of that, she gave me a discount for the night (which I had actually booked for the wrong night, but thank God they had room enough for the 15 of us). Still yet, I asked her what might be opened for dinner since we were all so hungry (it was about 9:00 p.m.). She suggested her favorite restaurant in this little town that served great, authentic family style Italian food! She called the restaurant and sure enough they had enough space for us and she reserved the spot! (Italians eat dinner late, so it wasn't entirely abnormal for us to eat so late). We walked not but 5 minutes down the main road and there was the the cutest, hole in the wall, family Italian restaurant where the service was the best I had ever seen in my whole experience here in Italy. The family that owned it made us feel like their family. They interacted with us and made us feel at home. And, of course we had to try some of the amazng Chianti wine--the Chianti grapes are grown in that region!! The food was amazing!!!! I was so happy to look around and see everyone smiling and laughing and talking and enjoying good food! It was the best feeling in the world for me. The hostel itself had such lovely accommodations too. We would have been fine with any bed at this point, but we had showers and a nice living area to play ping pong and a tv for the boys! It was perfect. The next morning us girls woke up early because we wanted to explore the town before we had to go since we had arrived when it was dark the night before. We walked onto the main road and were diverted down an off road where we were led to the sun rising over the valley and hills of Tuscany. It was the most gorgeous, Italian sight I had ever seen. We walked the quiet streets of Tavarnelle and grabbed and leisurely cappuccino at a bar (cafe). Most stores are closed on Sunday in Italy, so not too many places were opened. But as we walked the streets some shops were just opening, old men walked by and said "Bonjourno"! What a lovely town with such pleasant people. Everyone was so nice. I want to go back again! The bus ride to Siena was even more memorable. We were able to travel through the rolling, Tuscan hills where vineyards and olive groves surrounded us. Huge villas were on the hill tops and quaint farms speckled the valleys. It was perfect! I hope to make it back to the place again!

We finally arrived to Siena. Visiting Siena, after having visited Venice and Florence, made for a perfect ending to a great weekend. Siena, unlike Venice, offered more of a medieval feel (like Florence). With the Duomo towering over the city, Siena's focus seemed to be pointed upward. And this is exactly what I felt. Beginning at San Domenico's at the bottom of the town, where St. Catherine of Siena's head is located, we made our way up the winding cobblestone streets toward the top where we were able to see much of Siena's charm. It almost seemed ironic to begin at the Church where St. Catherine--saint and Doctor of the Church--was able to do the very thing she did here on this earth: point upward to Christ! At the top, we were able to look down upon the Tuscan hills full of vineyards and olive trees!

This weekend was so amazing, beginning with the sun rising over the canals of venice and ending with the sunset over the Tuscan hills! I cannot imagine a more perfect weekend!

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Surrounded by History

The culture, history, art and architecture that Rome has to offer is like nothing one will ever witness except here. It is so amazing. To be a witness of it is so eye-opening! I feel like my world-view has been broadened as I am able to experience, in a sense, the history of the ancient world. To see how and what the Western world was built from and how the Roman Empire influenced not only Rome but the entire world up until this point is amazing!

Dr. Connell, our professor, has emphasized over and over that there is something about Rome, from the beginning until now, that makes in the greatest city of all time. Reading "The Aenead" has broadened my historical understanding of Rome and enhances my experience being here. Seeing sights such as Largo Argentina where Julius Caesar was murdered or visiting the Forum create a living history book as I imagine the lives of those who lives before me. To think Rome has survived until now--throughout history, the good emperors and the bad, which there have been plenty of--demonstrate Rome's lasting prominence in the world! The history of Rome has shown me the importance of Rome--the importance that it has existed as such a powerful city and why it necessarily exists today as the center of the Catholic Faith!

Yesterday was a particularly overwhelming and emotional day for me. Upon rising at 6:30 a.m. to attend Mass in the crypt of St. Peter's Basilica, I didn't know what to expect. St. Peter's Square reflected a calm magnificence about it so early in the morning when hardly a soul could be seen walking its vastness. With the exception of few people, the Square itself was able to show off its grandeur in a different way than I had witnessed before, namely due to the absence and disruption of people. There's a certain beauty and innocence about the morning--the beginning of a new day. St. Peter's stood before me in this innocence and radiance for my eyes to see! Walking inside, the lights were dimmed. The Pieta was more emphasized by the dim lighting that hit the different angles of the sculpture. I felt again, as I always do walking into St. Peter's, a feeling of wander and awe. I somehow always feel a deep connection to my faith especially in this place. My faith becomes more real in a sense--I feel as if I'm a part of something so much bigger than myself. The Catholic faith is amazing like that. Because it is universal, we share a commonality, namely Christ as our head, the faith spreads not only to the faithful here on earth, but with the communion of those in heaven. We share in something so much deeper than ourselves and something even deeper than our personal relationship with Christ. We share TOGETHER in union with Christ. Experiencing that in such a powerful way ordains St. Peter's to be my most treasured experience in all of Europe. It's not only seeing its earthly radiance and splendor in all that it is, for it is definitely a structure of great architectural achievement and beauty, but it is entering into the faith of St. Peter who is buried there, it is entering into the faith of the people who helped construct it, it is entering into the faith of the saints who have walked before us and those living today, that makes such an experience one that enraptures the entire being--mind, body and spirit.

Descending the stairs to the crypt area of St. Peter's was an indescribable experience. I was already emotionally moved by stillness of St. Peter's so early in the morning and beholding the Pieta without crowds surrounding it. I remember thinking as I was walking down the steps what an amazing opportunity I was about to experience: Mass in the crypt. It was beautiful and very moving. It wasn't until afterwards that I began tearing up upon seeing JPII's tomb. The presence I felt moved me to tears. I knelt down. I prayed. I cried. What a start to a beautiful Saturday! I remained in a contemplative state for the rest of the day. I needed to be alone so I set myself apart from the group. Everything seemed touched me in a deeper way that day--everything I saw and every person I came in contact with. I sat for hours to think without feeling the need to go anywhere or do anything.

I made my way to Piazza Garibaldi, which overlooks the city. The view from the top is indescribable. I had been wanting to go up there and just sit. That day was the perfect day to do so. Brown leaves covered the ground. A hint of coolness was in the air as the Fall sun gently warmed Rome. I thought this as I wrote: "How do I describe what's before me?" I often wonder what is going to happen in two months--six months--a year from now. What am I going to remember? The memory lasts only for so long. Memory is our connection to the past. Apart from words and pictures, it's all we have. What things will I remember most? I wish I could write every feeling, emotion, sight and sound I experience so I can remember it forever.

I'm so grateful for this time: moments such as the one on top of Piazza Garibaldi and in the crypt of St. Peter's where I can truly appreciate and contemplate the life God has given me. I know that looking back I am going to appreciate this experience so much more. Now, I'm just trying to enjoy it and take in as much as I can. I heart Rome! It think it's safe to say that it's my favorite city. I'm in love. I would be content to live here my whole life.